tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26878426175398240992024-03-14T05:18:53.406-07:00Closeted WoodworkerHanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.comBlogger46125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-26857232556812835002016-06-17T02:46:00.001-07:002016-06-17T02:46:46.592-07:00The "Skansen" bench pt. 2The weather has been pleasant recently, so rather than stay cooped up in the dark basement storage area I've been out riding my bike when I've had a moment to spare. But the rains came yesterday so I addressed the bench again.<br />
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The legs needed to be cleaned and squared up after the jigsaw, and the compound curves provided a challenge I'd never dealt with before.<br />
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Fortunately I had this small wooden compass plane I'd bought at a flea market last fall. It cost nothing and was cute, but has been mostly just on display as a curiosity until now. Getting it tuned up took some work as the blade was rusted into place, but popping it in the freezer for a half hour or so helped free it up. The radius isn't quite right, so the resulting surface is a little choppy. I hope to tune the plane up more to do a final smoothing before assembly.</div>
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The convex surfaces I addressed with the simple wooden smoothing plane. It's nice and sharp, and light, and leaves a very refined surface.</div>
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I then proceeded to mark and cut the tenons. I could arguably have used a more aggressive handsaw for this job, but chose the tenon saw and a 3/4" chisel. I cut the cheeks with the saw and pared to the line rather than risk chopping them out.</div>
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Work holding worked fine in the vise despite the funny shapes. I didn't notice any damage to the legs, but the surfaces need to be further refined anyway. First though: through mortises in the bench top!</div>
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Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-47423119641943040782016-05-17T07:56:00.001-07:002016-05-17T07:56:54.701-07:00The "Skansen" bench pt. 1Skansen is a large outdoor living museum located right near the center of Stockholm, near the Vasa Ship Museum, Nordiska, and the amusement park Gröna Lund. It is a collection of buildings from all over Sweden meant to represent a cross-section of Swedish architectural and cultural traditions. It's a wonderful place to visit when in Stockholm to learn about Sweden's history: we take almost all our visitors there. We also have a year-pass so we can go whenever we want.<br />
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A couple of years ago I had dinner with Mr. Chris Schwarz after a Dutch Tool Chest course I took in England. Talking about Sweden he brought up a project he'd done called "The Skansen Bench" which I'd never heard of. To be honest, the name "Skansen Bench" doesn't say much, as there are probably hundreds of different benches on display there. Only later did I realize that this project is one reproduced by woodworkers everywhere after <a href="http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/i_can_do_that_skansen_bench">plans printed in Popular Woodworking</a>. While I appreciate the idea, the dimensions of home center lumber don't really do the proportions of the original justice.<br />
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The bench would be better called "Älvros Bench" as it can be found at the Älvros Farmstead at Skansen, which is almost always open to the public. Even then the name isn't terribly descriptive since there are probably a half dozen benches at this site. The one on display is a copy, as the original has been archived in the Nordiska collection warehouses. Plans for reproducing the original were published in a popular Swedish woodworking book in the 1970s.<br />
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The bench is somewhat iconic, and can be seen as an inspiration for this bench made of dimensional lumber and to be found scattered about Skansen.<br />
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We needed a hallway bench as a place to sit and put on and take off shoes, as one doesn't typically tramp around a Swedish home in shoes. I found some planed lumber measuring 70x195 mm in 3.3 meter lengths at a lumberyard out in the archipelago, and bought one for just under 200 kr. Although the width is far less than the original, I designed my own version around the dimensions, with simplified legs and a narrower top. Upon arriving home with my stock, I had to buck it up in the garage before bringing it inside.<br />
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As my jigsaw didn't have blades for the capacity of the wood, I grabbed my crosscut panel saw out of the workspace.</div>
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The legs I'd drawn up in my Android CAD program (which isn't working now that my phone updated to Marshmallow) and exported them as pdfs to print out at full scale. These I glued on with spray contact cement.</div>
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I took the sawbench and jigsaw with new, extra long blades out to the public access balcony to saw my stock into legs.</div>
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It was slow going in the 70mm thick stock, and the blade had a tendancy to drift to the left, so I planned my cutting around that and after about and hour I had my four legs roughed out.</div>
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<br />Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-79255890270540348232016-04-20T23:59:00.000-07:002016-04-21T00:00:46.138-07:00Monorail view camera pt. 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
OK, a couple of months without a post and of course the camera is completed now. To be honest there wasn't a whole lot of "woodworking" to be done after assembling the front and back frames, Instead, the project was all about fabricating parts in wood, metal, and fabric.</div>
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The lens boards were made after the frames were completed. I have one lens, with a sort of odd-ball 33mm diameter shutter. I cut the hole in the lens board to the right there just freehand with a knife, and sanded it smooth. These lens boards are just two pieces of 2mm birchplywood laminated to provide a lip. The walnut veneer was added for aesthetic reasons. All the gluing was done with some contact cement I bought in France to repair some shoes once.</div>
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Arguably the most challenging part of this build was making the bellows. There are plenty of resources online for assisting with this process, Google is your friend. The construction is a sandwich of a thin, coated nylon, card stock, and bookbinder cloth, and should be completely light-tight as well as fold flat. I sketched the bellows on my phone's CAD program, printed out at full scale, and made a model first to get the size right.</div>
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The assembled materials and tools for this day-long job. My daughter helped on a professional day when she was staying home from school. Here we've started gluing the card slats on the nylon.</div>
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The fourth side must be glued on a sort of ironing-board we fabricated from a parquet flooring offcut from a building site. After this step, the bookbinder's fabric was glued on, with the seam on the opposite side. Then the whole construction was turned inside-out and birch plywood frames were glued to the ends.</div>
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The front standards being fabricated from aluminum bar stock. I drilled a bunch of holes, and filed them flat.</div>
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Basically all the parts, just waiting for some screws.</div>
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The completed camera, on Easter.</div>
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One of the first shots, of my daughter and her friend. Old Arista ortho-lith film processed in Polymax.</div>
<br />Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-64263840831880643252016-02-18T00:07:00.004-08:002016-02-18T00:08:26.926-08:00New project: Monorail view camera pt. 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Being a fellow of many interests, I've always wanted a view camera to be able to play with movements and giant negatives. It may seem anachronistic in this age of phones with 20 megapixel optics, but view cameras offer the ability to correct perspective in-camera as well as other focus tricks, and the giant negatives (4x5 inches in my case) when scanned still offer far greater resolution than any digital camera.</div>
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View cameras can be bought complete relatively cheaply now, but of course I'd rather build one and challenge myself with a precision project. This won't be my first homemade camera: I've made dozens of pinhole cameras in the past, and most recently made this <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/27864571@N00/albums/72157628110719487">simple large format camera</a>.</div>
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My basic plan started by finding a lens of appropriate specs (135mm f 5.6 in this case) and price (almost cheap as dirt) on ebay, downloading <a href="http://jongrepstad.com/building-a-large-format-camera/">Jon Grepstads plans here</a>, and sketching my ideas on my phone's <a href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=se.inard.pro&hl=sv">CAD program</a>. My first diversion from Grepstad's plans was to order a cheap double dovetailed camera Arca Swiss compatible rail and a pair of compatible clamps from Ebay. These things are ubiquitous out there nowadays, and very inexpensive, though they take weeks to ship. The rail is really designed for mounting cameras with giant lenses, or stereophotography rigs, but will serve me fine for this camera.</div>
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Secondly, I want to have a smaller front standard to make for a more compact total kit.</div>
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The rear standard will also be redesigned with a different focusing screen spring mechanism and non-rotating back.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4SugN7I5Z5EONqmDH0U3E_5LgvvpCwALRhA1q8Z0j0Lbqw_ENMa4oOoOmXDoWiy9qX2fUzEaLsdNPg-vMgQVBf5g8P-GRabpomWiIWC1ljPQnDovKzoRG7uFKMAheoemQ2nKYzpFr5UCX/s1600/IMG_7544.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4SugN7I5Z5EONqmDH0U3E_5LgvvpCwALRhA1q8Z0j0Lbqw_ENMa4oOoOmXDoWiy9qX2fUzEaLsdNPg-vMgQVBf5g8P-GRabpomWiIWC1ljPQnDovKzoRG7uFKMAheoemQ2nKYzpFr5UCX/s320/IMG_7544.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Most of the parts of the camera. I had a little black walnut, and procured a little more (including veneer) for this project.</div>
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The first diversion from the plans: I'm using polycarbonate for my focusing screen. It needs a light texture on it, so I taped a piece of 1000 grit wet/dry paper on a sheet of glass, and using window cleaner for lubricant scuffed away. It worked admirably, though ultimately I may get another piece bead blasted for better uniformity.</div>
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After marking the film frame with a silver paint pen, I cut pieces of 5mm walnut as a frame for the ground glass.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTJyAUMV_r161j0xWLh3wXq15VTWhhDG0LvSFXZunDyqCe049Im4ABW2eug5WOt4jxTEdU54-3ZVPajzfOEg7T7eS5_gwWegkkDkieM4r2BoefwNgJnnCnnGD7iHAEzqi2m_baWUq9Nbr3/s1600/IMG_7556.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTJyAUMV_r161j0xWLh3wXq15VTWhhDG0LvSFXZunDyqCe049Im4ABW2eug5WOt4jxTEdU54-3ZVPajzfOEg7T7eS5_gwWegkkDkieM4r2BoefwNgJnnCnnGD7iHAEzqi2m_baWUq9Nbr3/s320/IMG_7556.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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These were just glued with contact cement on both sides of the glass, providing I rigid sandwich construction.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGLCKMXv43ij_qCEKi6BMMmVqOlE-ipn_1Nvr_xlT-fkzc0d4sZp58exsj7RBVOSVFKK36z2LTZx88gmty7K9z8dMQGqLoSgRfVgwXSTicZF4C3bC-gboo2xYaiAi0j6OoP7txaws8_PjK/s1600/DSC_1083.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGLCKMXv43ij_qCEKi6BMMmVqOlE-ipn_1Nvr_xlT-fkzc0d4sZp58exsj7RBVOSVFKK36z2LTZx88gmty7K9z8dMQGqLoSgRfVgwXSTicZF4C3bC-gboo2xYaiAi0j6OoP7txaws8_PjK/s320/DSC_1083.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The larger black walnut pieces were dimensioned, and then I got to play with my newish moving fillister plane to make rabbets.</div>
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The frame was constructed with stopped sliding dovetails. I'm not too happy about the gappy joinery.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV0IXIIL_xQgCQVhxChIFomgKDzmaCJtwfeXgpaj268xastWg5TAdG775RHCeGU6913vA7wrSDIs18LHM5A6DvWZS0_MgavF6GZEKJBmwhWo24zM0tE5_oARMq2S4dDrH5NC2h0q8wh5nY/s1600/IMG_7580.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV0IXIIL_xQgCQVhxChIFomgKDzmaCJtwfeXgpaj268xastWg5TAdG775RHCeGU6913vA7wrSDIs18LHM5A6DvWZS0_MgavF6GZEKJBmwhWo24zM0tE5_oARMq2S4dDrH5NC2h0q8wh5nY/s320/IMG_7580.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Nor am I happy with this eviden twist.</div>
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Glued up it's flat, but the joints are pretty ugly. I'm out of practice. And I really could have used a 1/8" chisel for this job.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvDu2TopSn9zwB1YNrzxxhgsIo4NG3rZQiPWBxOjdpyVPjl_EsFlOybyCTyFVH4moIO7vDCk0nliXC3SjKRf27J9dnnckseSMfnAgTlAUFaeEtT1Em7xAuql-7SGFMr46tBJr4BreAnv51/s1600/IMG_7582.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvDu2TopSn9zwB1YNrzxxhgsIo4NG3rZQiPWBxOjdpyVPjl_EsFlOybyCTyFVH4moIO7vDCk0nliXC3SjKRf27J9dnnckseSMfnAgTlAUFaeEtT1Em7xAuql-7SGFMr46tBJr4BreAnv51/s320/IMG_7582.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The finished parts so far: focusing screen and rear standard, with the lens and monrail waiting for the rest of the components.</div>
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<br />Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-64193870665524695542016-02-15T07:51:00.002-08:002016-02-15T07:53:11.830-08:00Chair modification pt. 5<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So, the chair is finished and getting a lot of use in the loggia. It isn't perfect, but a fairly successful conversion anyway.</div>
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The tops of the legs were rounded with a chisel and block plane. Eveything got a light coat of raw linseed oil and beeswax, hopefully the birch will darken to match with age.</div>
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The upholstery job was easy, with foam from an IKEA cushion (IKEA gets a lot of hate, but 19 kr for a chair's worth of foam cushioning plus cotton for two shop rags is a great deal.) and some nice patterned blue fabric. The fabric was far and away the most expensive part of this project, but there's enough left for a throw pillow or two. The foam was contact cemented to the plywood, and the fabric drawn and stapled in place.</div>
<br />Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-45578499757681371412016-02-13T07:13:00.001-08:002016-02-13T07:13:48.085-08:00Stockholm Furniture Fair<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
I swung by the Stockholm Furniture Fair yesterday to check out this year's trends. Saw a lot of these freestanding cabinets on legs, maybe because I've been thinking of making something similar.</div>
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Surprising amount of softwoods on display. This was from the student exhibition.</div>
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A geometric wall hung unit.</div>
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Another student project: a tabletop workbench. Been thinking of developing something similar to this.</div>
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Yet another student project: tree tapping kit.</div>
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Schwarz-approved nails...</div>
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...as a giant flooring company logo.</div>
<br />Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-10321719651507857972016-02-13T07:03:00.002-08:002016-02-13T07:03:43.596-08:00Chair modification pt. 4<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
With the mortises cut and the legs mostly shaped it was time to glue the chair up again. This included regluing the back, which had some gaps.</div>
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I used hide glue for the first time with this project. It was a little thick, I think, which filled the joints and made them a little gappy. Live and learn.</div>
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With the frame glued up I could go ahead and cut off the tops of the legs, as the tenons now wouldn't bust out the endgrain. At least not yet!</div>
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Then I could shape the recesses to accept the seat.</div>
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I decided to reglue the whole thing, as the gappy joints just didn't look right. Succeeded better this time.</div>
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I salvaged this piece of 12mm plywood from a dumpster for the base of the seat, and used the pattern pictured in the previous photo to get the shape right.</div>
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With a quick coat of wax and the upholstery draped over the seat, this is what it looks like.</div>
<br />Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-32496788167771955252016-02-01T10:32:00.001-08:002016-02-02T06:34:33.260-08:00Chair modification pt. 3<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
To taper the legs, I marked the both tapers on both sides in pencil, and took them down to the workbench.</div>
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I notched the start of the cut with a chisel.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBuKeSLe23Bx4NyaT2n_k4n46m3FjMFEZedm_Q_BgXsGTSYDM0DLSdOLUvafenO6qQnSutqKW-uc4Aw3seeMhg3-DmwsrIzFZZlYhGxmD-_a7zNe182FaPhN1OqMKhWS7mTjhZuBpNzqw0/s1600/DSC_1060.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBuKeSLe23Bx4NyaT2n_k4n46m3FjMFEZedm_Q_BgXsGTSYDM0DLSdOLUvafenO6qQnSutqKW-uc4Aw3seeMhg3-DmwsrIzFZZlYhGxmD-_a7zNe182FaPhN1OqMKhWS7mTjhZuBpNzqw0/s640/DSC_1060.JPG" /> </a> </div>
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And just ripped down the line, holding the piece in the vise. The sawn face was then planed smooth on the bench. To shape the slight angle on the outside edges, I marked the depth of the cut with the cutting gauge, planed down along the corner to the mark, and then flattened the face. Neglected to shoot that process, though.</div>
Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-8175691066363075612016-01-28T04:13:00.001-08:002016-01-28T04:14:00.212-08:00Chair modification pt. 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
With the legs cut out and surfaces prepped, it was time to undertake the only real joinery of this project: cutting the mortises for the seat rails' tenons. These were nine millimeter wide, and would have to be located on the same location as the original chair's legs.</div>
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On site, I marked the height of the two tenons using a knife and a square.</div>
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I then marked the dimensions of the mortise from the original legs. I don't have a mortise gauge, so I just used my homemade cutting gauge, taking multiple passes after marking both legs.</div>
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With the mortises marked, I took the legs to my workshop and marked the cut more heavily with a knife.</div>
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I chiseled out a recess to guide my cutting, and then drilled pilot holes with an 8mm bit, hogging out as much waste as I could.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPM9mbLutWw08NAAsQz11mPh4Jjcge36b3xsn6vzHTPXcfaRlg4I1jUqlMgOlLHtTZJYaKBJOoGO_zB26FF280t_toJdtWuI-EKJ9ws_HWhx8Rq29SBAjVT3-J4B3qxb6b25etSikpxw5N/s1600/IMG_7534.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPM9mbLutWw08NAAsQz11mPh4Jjcge36b3xsn6vzHTPXcfaRlg4I1jUqlMgOlLHtTZJYaKBJOoGO_zB26FF280t_toJdtWuI-EKJ9ws_HWhx8Rq29SBAjVT3-J4B3qxb6b25etSikpxw5N/s320/IMG_7534.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Clearly I don't have a 9mm mortise chisel, or any mortise chisel for that matter. I don't even have and 8mm or 9mm bench chisel, but the 1/4" chisel did admirably for the ends and the width, while the broad sides were pared down with a 3/4" chisel.</div>
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The front rail fits just fine!</div>
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I took the front subassembly upstairs to mate it to the rest of the chair. The side rails needed to be cleaned a bit of excess glue, and the mortises lightly shaped, but the final fit is nice and tight.</div>
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In situ. Next: shaping the legs, gluing it up, making a seat, finishing.</div>
<br />Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-19609754462807003322016-01-20T06:01:00.001-08:002016-01-28T04:13:50.712-08:00Chair modification pt. 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The first step in modifying this chair for our space was removing the front legs to see what sort of shape the tenons were in. Getting the legs off in good shape would also provide me with a model of what the replacement legs should look like.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin0kZCfYMuXXchMYr5_bryltoEYULRipjoMjOba_TTcav-HV6BqEq6nwNqWoaa_ngdbH9VWLiSvAuh-lkRcQ9w573tOvWKYJfIIefGFGLLH8f0CYXELRaT_zuy2w45ay2xR7NbM44E7B8E/s1600/IMG_7511.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin0kZCfYMuXXchMYr5_bryltoEYULRipjoMjOba_TTcav-HV6BqEq6nwNqWoaa_ngdbH9VWLiSvAuh-lkRcQ9w573tOvWKYJfIIefGFGLLH8f0CYXELRaT_zuy2w45ay2xR7NbM44E7B8E/s320/IMG_7511.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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This step had to take place up in the apartment, as I couldn't put a kettle on down in the storage area. A little hot water poured on the joint softened the glue right up.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCPIir_T7fxddaaPx6fNLakVNwH2Lgyy1isFt2BiebJBXgUlNbaEn5JtugkNjkiCNVd-W-mQUECHNisr3WWTiDRKDJgiRSMVYrB-nrdk-6Sb8R-5N1-G-6HDG_hpz0pWrksH2fbdoPlicL/s1600/IMG_7513.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCPIir_T7fxddaaPx6fNLakVNwH2Lgyy1isFt2BiebJBXgUlNbaEn5JtugkNjkiCNVd-W-mQUECHNisr3WWTiDRKDJgiRSMVYrB-nrdk-6Sb8R-5N1-G-6HDG_hpz0pWrksH2fbdoPlicL/s320/IMG_7513.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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The chair knocked apart without any trouble.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxlvA-xAAq8ib8dzcyZIpbVLy7zU3heD1rO5OYDqElAqxZzclXn2VkagQgMZR8NXtXTAL57P-E95_Afy8oftmx_-yTSVdyK5mAC_idVfoTh4Ib19GY8djhf09Xl3AqeKqOaX67rZ3PzJus/s1600/IMG_7515.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxlvA-xAAq8ib8dzcyZIpbVLy7zU3heD1rO5OYDqElAqxZzclXn2VkagQgMZR8NXtXTAL57P-E95_Afy8oftmx_-yTSVdyK5mAC_idVfoTh4Ib19GY8djhf09Xl3AqeKqOaX67rZ3PzJus/s320/IMG_7515.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Here's the shape of the upper part of the leg I will have to reproduce.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKjRNey5p_WqhC_R52Y_b2tFCo7p6JYqU1FlaZG-TNhv7MgTysPJBZFw1JrYwvWH_I2Q5t3AgyEjwhhktSZuhJ3zaj3SWjd7kJaGXZjkU4ZZTujN2uq63OenQ3hM_CP_6Zy2IeLEsOPqlb/s1600/IMG_7510.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKjRNey5p_WqhC_R52Y_b2tFCo7p6JYqU1FlaZG-TNhv7MgTysPJBZFw1JrYwvWH_I2Q5t3AgyEjwhhktSZuhJ3zaj3SWjd7kJaGXZjkU4ZZTujN2uq63OenQ3hM_CP_6Zy2IeLEsOPqlb/s320/IMG_7510.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I started by smoothing up the stock I got for the front legs. The pair I'd hoped to retrieve from a dumpster were buried under a ton of junk by the time I got back there, but I found a nice piece at a hardwood reseller right in the center of Stockholm. Working at a proper bench for once is a pleasure! This planing stop mortised into the benchtop was a revelation.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAabkJPBEtCFkNQNSApRBGpZdgmRHk_OVnQtgWpk0BIopJpAi-dgiHyeRwaGVjwn2JhcXjVM4HpfUNSMfr3u95PjDjMeJ15iMvkdZ8jcgaDJTZfQT_GmYLnvA9Kp6nwd_UPpgrOTalQ3RG/s1600/IMG_7516.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAabkJPBEtCFkNQNSApRBGpZdgmRHk_OVnQtgWpk0BIopJpAi-dgiHyeRwaGVjwn2JhcXjVM4HpfUNSMfr3u95PjDjMeJ15iMvkdZ8jcgaDJTZfQT_GmYLnvA9Kp6nwd_UPpgrOTalQ3RG/s320/IMG_7516.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Being too wide, I needed to make it squarish, and started the long rip with my plow plane and a 1/8" iron to make a pair of grooves to lead the saw.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhESSA_pZL4wZQOJqBnDQNrkREfksOhw7wCMHy5Gtb7CQbJ4FgMChBpqmP09MUisa-LyDC99o1rH5JmfBVbltZQx5Pp8-F4aLXUFLTbUvJEwkhmUhisA7ZovuJRcYfrbHB7rzgKVcU1SEz/s1600/IMG_7519.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhESSA_pZL4wZQOJqBnDQNrkREfksOhw7wCMHy5Gtb7CQbJ4FgMChBpqmP09MUisa-LyDC99o1rH5JmfBVbltZQx5Pp8-F4aLXUFLTbUvJEwkhmUhisA7ZovuJRcYfrbHB7rzgKVcU1SEz/s320/IMG_7519.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I sawed at the bench rather than pull the sawbench out from under the tool chest. I need to make a smaller sawbench to keep up front. The sawing took 15 minutes, and while it is hard birch I probably need to sharpen the saw. This is my converted crosscut to rip saw, and I haven't sharpened it since reshaping the teeth. I then got out the crosscut saw and cut it in half. Two legs to square up and get ready for mortising.</div>
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While I was sawing I clamped down the remaining part of the chair to remove the back legs. Here I needed to use a little toolbox saw as I was working at the bench and didn't have any space behind me.</div>
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As suspected, cutting off the back legs went right through a couple of tenons. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipTB2auVBdMaqkQYnSPX_D6UxkYAYbnbwlGEVZ4IquGjF5D11qOY-KyV4YH2-35ONXSHLDvkcgncK781VV83iUiB6VHifcWltOZIvjh04yLhBCTvtVoQ7SI3Hj5a7SPw-Q1yxCKWGfkZaS/s1600/IMG_7523.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipTB2auVBdMaqkQYnSPX_D6UxkYAYbnbwlGEVZ4IquGjF5D11qOY-KyV4YH2-35ONXSHLDvkcgncK781VV83iUiB6VHifcWltOZIvjh04yLhBCTvtVoQ7SI3Hj5a7SPw-Q1yxCKWGfkZaS/s320/IMG_7523.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">These joints don't look too healthy, either. I'll have to take them apart, clean them up, and clamp everything together again. Then I'll cover the exposed mortises with a piece of felt or something for it to ride on when resting on the windowsill.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiErRqvq9KssDbmC8iKkZc0AszyH_On60rE21A_QNGZ2k_je6Q875FDn4LmWYcaSkj7fmOxwE73Fs-A4QNu7t1A1cLhAR3f4DcL8eol3UTyFiKdu9g52xn05_0hfTjFJLk9oGzFyaOmlsEO/s1600/IMG_7524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiErRqvq9KssDbmC8iKkZc0AszyH_On60rE21A_QNGZ2k_je6Q875FDn4LmWYcaSkj7fmOxwE73Fs-A4QNu7t1A1cLhAR3f4DcL8eol3UTyFiKdu9g52xn05_0hfTjFJLk9oGzFyaOmlsEO/s320/IMG_7524.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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And here it is! This is what the chair will end up doing when completed. </div>
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<br />Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-54882290180658947952016-01-14T12:33:00.001-08:002016-01-14T12:33:45.103-08:00Vise installed<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After the holidays I've finally gotten around to making headway on some projects. I'm gathering parts for an exciting project for later this winter, after the chair for the loggia. But everything depends upon getting the workbench finished.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhzA-Jvin1sOKdWzq7ngn2tSKOwYThTnyPUGAGebbEP7DBKoD99eVAdPdvp6U7Mqry-1H9AKHKI2Mah0PpcdR6qBwyF12pgmZXw6jpymd3a547Q5rt7qL7rcYlW1fe6ykUx9bZSF9YFkca/s1600/IMG_7497.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhzA-Jvin1sOKdWzq7ngn2tSKOwYThTnyPUGAGebbEP7DBKoD99eVAdPdvp6U7Mqry-1H9AKHKI2Mah0PpcdR6qBwyF12pgmZXw6jpymd3a547Q5rt7qL7rcYlW1fe6ykUx9bZSF9YFkca/s320/IMG_7497.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I cut up a bit of ash countertop I had to make a new chop for the vise. Drilled 20mm holes for the threaded rods, and laminated the two pieces together up in the apartment.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpPW8h9NRjdiSbHycQtTXU8YhAXFPSCEVzIbobDq9KK2KHYf_1Wj2_WXfzUaLlpv0vg7tIdYCBAruLkqw-YFqB_FjUrIRF8qfW8x6rn8N739lSB5FBOoHv6TtD9Rmp1NOVHRoPFkn3xsrl/s1600/DSC_1018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpPW8h9NRjdiSbHycQtTXU8YhAXFPSCEVzIbobDq9KK2KHYf_1Wj2_WXfzUaLlpv0vg7tIdYCBAruLkqw-YFqB_FjUrIRF8qfW8x6rn8N739lSB5FBOoHv6TtD9Rmp1NOVHRoPFkn3xsrl/s320/DSC_1018.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The holes in the chop were made with a forstner, but to get the holes in the workbench face line up I chucked in this cheap 20mm spiral wood bit. That thing plus my 50m extension cord maxes this drill out, but it got the job done.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKs1uymaYZxBUwLEA0heIIWh7BVKgttmLlSk4qXoGqaDc5kK6EGxjIzItoFI7Klm4ozr3yt927Su3gh37n8f4NNycaybQaIOO0bBEF8uX1OZIXeJfhH4WlylyQbrNWwPe-grLcJHCzYEd3/s1600/DSC_1019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKs1uymaYZxBUwLEA0heIIWh7BVKgttmLlSk4qXoGqaDc5kK6EGxjIzItoFI7Klm4ozr3yt927Su3gh37n8f4NNycaybQaIOO0bBEF8uX1OZIXeJfhH4WlylyQbrNWwPe-grLcJHCzYEd3/s320/DSC_1019.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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In situ. While I had power running down to the basement, I drilled a first holdfast hole. Sadly, the 1" hole was too small. I thought I'd checked this out with my calipers first! Anyhow, will need to plug that one with a bit of dowel in order to redrill it. Again, using forstners as that's what I have. My next size up is a 28.6mm, what is that, 1 1/8"? Will have to do.</div>
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Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-87164121088501993832015-12-04T08:04:00.000-08:002016-01-20T06:01:46.351-08:00Future project: chair modification<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The "loggia" has quickly become our favorite room in the apartment. The kitchen sofa with proper cushions is very comfortable, and we have equipped the room with cozy lighting. My wife's folks recently brought down the round birch table, a very nice piece. But the room lacks seating opposite the sofa, unless one perches on the marble window sill.</div>
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We've had the idea of adding seating here by modifying a chair with extended front legs, and back legs removed behind the seat, so that it may rest on the window sill. The idea of buying a perfectly fine chair with the purpose of chopping up isn't very appealing, though, and with my current skill set it would be difficult (and expensive) to pull off a custom number.</div>
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I spied a pair of square section, tapered birch table legs in a dumpster the other day, and thought that they may work for chair legs (the legs will need to be extended off a standard chair length by about 11 cm). Lacking a chair for the project, though, I left them where they were. The next day, however, I found a perfect candidate chair left out for garbage pickup in our neighborhood.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6gfWUwTQEuPM78P2-hQYR-9Wwy3atM-mU97mlY4DiudDhzRDid9o4dfiWZUXBYror0ENt_qDquxhypir3Rxw9ntHri2VvCo4xtDLXYGF9ZT_jJP7f6fMIraKpdxx67tnhyphenhyphenUEJCTtHVb3l/s1600/IMG_7479.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6gfWUwTQEuPM78P2-hQYR-9Wwy3atM-mU97mlY4DiudDhzRDid9o4dfiWZUXBYror0ENt_qDquxhypir3Rxw9ntHri2VvCo4xtDLXYGF9ZT_jJP7f6fMIraKpdxx67tnhyphenhyphenUEJCTtHVb3l/s320/IMG_7479.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I first thought the chair to be birch, but on closer inspection I realize it's beech. Whatever it is, it's not in great shape, which makes butchering it for this project easier on my conscience.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXd0trSJHc308Vvg5U8u7Dq6oEx_9ClORn-zHE8n91iEpH9kuU4g6fg5oZZ9_KTA4SxP7VDPHay2InIPwZOJf3l2gONkawEF6ncMn-4_zLGzsflGh_hSrup88I2nlh6qLSm0W_cIgGgMxz/s1600/IMG_7480.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXd0trSJHc308Vvg5U8u7Dq6oEx_9ClORn-zHE8n91iEpH9kuU4g6fg5oZZ9_KTA4SxP7VDPHay2InIPwZOJf3l2gONkawEF6ncMn-4_zLGzsflGh_hSrup88I2nlh6qLSm0W_cIgGgMxz/s320/IMG_7480.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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The front legs are almost square section, about 40x40mm. The chair's been abused, as this busted mortise can attest.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZEMCoHvwx9_09y8lplk4re7MoceWpJc9t3HvB3168UICCgV_2I7kWaamxHQ_AeEcjKuhlbScqgZgBVjpT5U3EJxdtDDiEls16-jzY6ThyphenhyphenlA4QqLCVbcd-onQFxMKcnAXolUG-LWyJoV9h/s1600/IMG_7481.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZEMCoHvwx9_09y8lplk4re7MoceWpJc9t3HvB3168UICCgV_2I7kWaamxHQ_AeEcjKuhlbScqgZgBVjpT5U3EJxdtDDiEls16-jzY6ThyphenhyphenlA4QqLCVbcd-onQFxMKcnAXolUG-LWyJoV9h/s320/IMG_7481.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Even this part of the back is cracking.</div>
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The plan is to:</div>
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<li>Make new, longer tapered section front legs and mortise them to accept the existing tenons.</li>
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<li>Cut off the back legs below the seat's apron, and level the side and back aprons.</li>
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<li>Refinish the entire chair with wax.</li>
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<li>Make a new seat, probably from plywood, foam sheeting, and a scrap of fabric.</li>
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<br />Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-42126141856738837722015-12-01T08:06:00.003-08:002015-12-01T08:09:54.873-08:00Small bookcase pt. 8<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
For lateral strength, this project has until now relied almost entirely upon the strength of the joints. Given the thickness of the timbers and the cabinet's projected use, this isn't much of an issue, but it is something to consider in furniture design. Since the upper cubby now features a door, it only follows that the cubby should also be provided with a back, securing its contents and simultaneously adding a bit of rigidity to the structure.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipw7xdzTgdwiSLiDeyx296h39a0Q4xeDOCray7ORks-Ow2XmCrPFb6pwO2qYdGnElAqMn494otQIPtRg1askbm2iZ8FQykAp4Pe5mg_-4nmrd419OVxUWKEX-_oL3K6WVPi9nIu1bGS5cW/s1600/IMG_7461.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipw7xdzTgdwiSLiDeyx296h39a0Q4xeDOCray7ORks-Ow2XmCrPFb6pwO2qYdGnElAqMn494otQIPtRg1askbm2iZ8FQykAp4Pe5mg_-4nmrd419OVxUWKEX-_oL3K6WVPi9nIu1bGS5cW/s320/IMG_7461.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I had an offcut of some 3.5mm birch plywood that fit the bill, and used a cutting gauge and my router plane to get the job done.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4scagBVS_IuvSkKP-cp5JBTjdiFwkikDgMBtpbqKeiTGrHbNa3uCdbcu6wRlknZEvCTdnhhTM0aabDqipzWb6m5xVliH0ehVsTftXCoXKkngxINXxg4s5lBQiNoxkI7Jp9Sqjdc1cFf-v/s1600/IMG_7462.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4scagBVS_IuvSkKP-cp5JBTjdiFwkikDgMBtpbqKeiTGrHbNa3uCdbcu6wRlknZEvCTdnhhTM0aabDqipzWb6m5xVliH0ehVsTftXCoXKkngxINXxg4s5lBQiNoxkI7Jp9Sqjdc1cFf-v/s320/IMG_7462.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I marked off the thickness of the recess into which I would insert the plywood on the back.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdYezFZXeiQ2FmKQzxV-NFm2sVEW71g7-SiuPbM-RIuhzBN5rGPupyq267Sn8OVC7Wi3IocdKs8SFxolRvcP1ezmq1i1nMa6v0Bc_NpvdvlUz0XG0494ybYuZgn2AefngXwhYh7U2bpmwb/s1600/IMG_7463.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdYezFZXeiQ2FmKQzxV-NFm2sVEW71g7-SiuPbM-RIuhzBN5rGPupyq267Sn8OVC7Wi3IocdKs8SFxolRvcP1ezmq1i1nMa6v0Bc_NpvdvlUz0XG0494ybYuZgn2AefngXwhYh7U2bpmwb/s320/IMG_7463.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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And extended the cuts to the edge with a knife and square.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKNLG4i2WXPokHZh6hVw33ZPEGWkMMOAhUnMBscqSypJeJQ1bccUbrZENxIUqfmTf0QJVo2lB8tniTtJhZeuiOMV66Le86kJQx0mBcRdAEopLqJr8osfwM3Kyi-ZygxGMm13ygC0fE49-T/s1600/IMG_7464.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKNLG4i2WXPokHZh6hVw33ZPEGWkMMOAhUnMBscqSypJeJQ1bccUbrZENxIUqfmTf0QJVo2lB8tniTtJhZeuiOMV66Le86kJQx0mBcRdAEopLqJr8osfwM3Kyi-ZygxGMm13ygC0fE49-T/s320/IMG_7464.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Setting the router plane at just over the depth of the plywood, I then used it to mark the depth of the recess.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY95mz68CfbF6psTJfQYwuuLeiLX43e6hncuPM4AGsnZafhOL7-Nkeb3N4l3tDwnavBaoXRiYPzp-VHC_0F96pHGc36cUjlyERnqx_vrghMYsqn7_VRaHE3icIlglw6k4HbbQDNQcHsxHe/s1600/IMG_7466.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY95mz68CfbF6psTJfQYwuuLeiLX43e6hncuPM4AGsnZafhOL7-Nkeb3N4l3tDwnavBaoXRiYPzp-VHC_0F96pHGc36cUjlyERnqx_vrghMYsqn7_VRaHE3icIlglw6k4HbbQDNQcHsxHe/s320/IMG_7466.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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And just pared down with a chisel.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgg_21PJc_pGRNryGdRlMZ7yfA4pQd7ClOzZJN2GmNjFjgRJR8hIvljaLCecWGWckHr7NYwL-xjyxVe6DkTK172LRkHOdo8cu9sOkcQeMYDoLXJwJ31EcuMF5I0CUpYizVF-NDy5AXadH0/s1600/IMG_7469.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgg_21PJc_pGRNryGdRlMZ7yfA4pQd7ClOzZJN2GmNjFjgRJR8hIvljaLCecWGWckHr7NYwL-xjyxVe6DkTK172LRkHOdo8cu9sOkcQeMYDoLXJwJ31EcuMF5I0CUpYizVF-NDy5AXadH0/s320/IMG_7469.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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And then cut everything to a uniform depth with the router plane.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieAvldvoumY657jTzjnDuvXNnxFkbBwhwK5z9kfLqkY_gSE5PC9ipddqpEZaK2Z4Ieho2dfwdALGycXLOseJhQJuZVLLIcry-mdn-QIasXgwv2Uz_UbGN7vZCxSx-120mZJeI-S4CjQxN8/s1600/IMG_7470.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieAvldvoumY657jTzjnDuvXNnxFkbBwhwK5z9kfLqkY_gSE5PC9ipddqpEZaK2Z4Ieho2dfwdALGycXLOseJhQJuZVLLIcry-mdn-QIasXgwv2Uz_UbGN7vZCxSx-120mZJeI-S4CjQxN8/s320/IMG_7470.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I set the corner of the plywood in the recess to mark the size.</div>
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And laid out my cuts with a drafting square, because that's what I had in the apartment. Drat! opportunity missed to use the Schwarzian layout square.</div>
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Again, just using the dozuki here to cut to the line.</div>
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I set the panel in backwards to mark approximately where the nails should go.</div>
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I predrilled with a little 1mm bit in a removable chuck in my screwdriver.</div>
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And nailed it in place. I didn't have a nailset handy, so that will have to wait.</div>
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Back in place, with the door, still awaiting a hinge.</div>
<br />Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-6058983659707996252015-11-24T12:13:00.000-08:002015-11-24T12:13:15.232-08:00Small bookcase pt. 7<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
With the door assembled and mostly flattened, it was time to fit it to the case.</div>
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I needed to take about a millimeter off each side, and still lacking any kind of vise on my temporary workbench rigged up a couple of clamps for workholding purposes.</div>
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I needed to run upstairs to check the fit a couple of times, and then hit all the edges with the block plane a couple of swipes.</div>
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And smoothed the faces with a cabinet scraper.</div>
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And gave my new purchase a workout: a much-needed small dustpan!</div>
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In situ. Time for a hinge, and to do some final smoothing of the whole case.</div>
<br />Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-28511643259384555162015-11-22T10:47:00.000-08:002015-11-22T10:48:02.708-08:00Small bookcase pt. 6<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So the whole bookcase was designed around the space for which it was destined, the material I had at hand, and a single decorative element: this plastic bead panel of a rose I planned on using in a door in the upper-right cubby. My daughter made the panel using a set of 30 different plastic beads and software converting a digital image to the constraints of the kit. It's about 15cm square, and gets sealed with a household iron. I like this modern decorative element, and see it as a sort of 21st century version of a pie safe tin door, or much-simplified decorative marquetry.</div>
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Until now, this project has been accomplished with a bare minimum of tools: a single chisel and saw, a mallet, and a no 4 plane. For the door, an optional addition to the project, I've moved into my basement workspace (now lit with a rechargeable worklight) and will use some more elaborate tools.</div>
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For example: the small plow plane. I used this to groove the stock I had for the door to accept the panel. The stock had nice straight grain and was just long enough (about 90 cm) to make four sides. If I screwed one up, there wasn't any extra to play with.</div>
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Once the groove was finished, I used my homemade miterbox to cut 45 degree angles to length.</div>
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And then the shooting board to trim to length and perfect the angles.</div>
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I thought I got the corners just about perfect.</div>
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But the glue up complicated things, and in the end a couple of the miters are a little gappy.</div>
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Also, I need to flatten the face and the back, as the corners were a little off. Miters are notoriously difficult to get right, and I suppose I got a little cocky after the relative success of my <a href="http://closetedwoodworker.blogspot.se/2015/02/mitered-panel-door.html">first attempt</a>, and didn't have anything to specifically clamp the corners down. I think it will be fine in the end, but it's a skill I still need to hone.</div>
<br />Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-71629299915489994422015-10-14T10:08:00.002-07:002015-10-14T11:07:20.214-07:00A new Closet<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
A new apartment in Stockholm, and a new closet to work in.</div>
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Not so much a closet really, but a storage area in the building's basement. A shelving unit on the left houses our Christmas ornaments, camping gear and other sundries, leaving the right side as a workspace. There is no available power down here, so I will need to do something about lighting. Hand tools make sense in a space like this!</div>
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The workbench is made of material salvaged from the previous workspace sort of haphazardly thrown together during the moving preparation. I've got some work left to do on it, and need to organize my tools better. The toolchest is resting on my sawbench in the back there, and is somewhat accessible. Lumber storage will have to go to the left of it a bit there. I think this space can work.</div>
<br />Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-66412275154637254392015-10-04T10:16:00.000-07:002015-10-04T10:16:31.426-07:00Small bookcase pt. 5<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The little bookcase is coming along now. The joinery could be a tad tighter, but it is already getting put to use.</div>
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I started smoothing all the outside surfaces, again using the threshold as a planing stop.</div>
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I also needed to make the bottom skirt, so started by shooting a smooth end on the board I'd marked off the bottom shelf with.</div>
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I marked the length with a knife, and then sawed it to length and fine tuned it with the shooting board.</div>
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then I glued it into place, and planed it flat with the sides.</div>
<br />Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-63546562157875912162015-09-21T07:36:00.002-07:002015-09-21T08:04:23.075-07:00Small bookcase pt. 4<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Chopping all the dadoes took time! In all, there are 12 in this little cabinet, and all needed to be fitted and get matching shoulders cut.</div>
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The main dilemma in laying out the dadoes was what to do where the interior vertical element and the top shelf cross. I didn't want to compromise the integrity of the top shelf too much, so decided to make the dadoes (or mortises?) short, each one only using half the breadth of the shelf. That's kind of visible above.</div>
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Before assembly, I lightly smoothed all the inside panels. I worked on the floor, and used the threshold as a planing stop.</div>
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Lots of glue for this project! This is some sort of normal hardware store PVA.</div>
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Lacking any long bar or pipe clamps, I decided to try using these lightweight nylon webbing come-alongs for assembly. They do a pretty admirable job of holding everything together while the glue cures, though they damage the sharp corners of the cabinet by crushing the wood fibers. Not to worry, I will hit the entire outside of the cabinet with the smoothing plane once the glue is dry. These come-alongs seem like a natural resource for a space-limited woodworker, and I'll try to develop better clamping methods using them in the future. Before the glue cures, I checked it by measuring corner-to-corner and encouraged it into a close approximation of square</div>
<br />Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-11857813510549665252015-09-18T12:15:00.002-07:002015-09-18T12:25:10.504-07:00Small bookcase pt. 3<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
With the simple casework completed, it is now time to start chopping stopped dadoes for my shelves.</div>
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I matched the case sides and marked them together so that the shelves are guaranteed to line up.</div>
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I stopped the dado 15mm from the edge of the case. I don't plan to put a face frame on this piece, and wanted the shelves to appear to be floating.</div>
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After marking the edge with the knife, I relieved a wedge shape of waste on the inside with the knife.</div>
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I marked the depth of the cut with my router plane, and then sawed down to that depth with the dozuki.</div>
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After getting one edge of the cut started, I used the shelf itself to mark the opposing side.</div>
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The other side got the same treatment, and the dado's end is defined with the chisel.</div>
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First I hog out most of the waste with a chisel.</div>
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And then clean up the bottom of the cut with a little router plane.</div>
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The shelves need a small relief to fit into the dado. I define the shoulders with a chisel, and relieve the edges a tad with a plane.</div>
<br />Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-22799461025991613762015-09-18T12:05:00.000-07:002015-09-18T12:05:00.114-07:00Bukowski's MarketLately I've been watching the auctions at <a href="https://www.bukowskismarket.com/sv/mobler">Bukowski's Market</a> for inspiration. Furniture here is a notch or two above Craigslist, but not deemed worthy enough for Bukowski's upscale real auction-auctions. What's nice is the variety of furniture exhibited: midcentury Scandinavian, Art Nouveau (jugend), and traditional Scandinavian (allmoge, dare I say "Furniture of Necessity"?) are all well-represented. And the pieces are professionally photographed from all interesting angles with nice, even lighting.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-XHyjUaCiQZK117NmIjruB4TAP7SKXb_ew0rQCbZdcEijUFBDJaVT-8iEGRtgBspCiW30_VHUnH5tb5lZAWdLdqkCua_OgJ6lLSMcieketyi0y-OOkvmtxgLuZSE_8jfkSyb-Q6um-riK/s1600/Screenshot+2015-09-02+08.29.14.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="168" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-XHyjUaCiQZK117NmIjruB4TAP7SKXb_ew0rQCbZdcEijUFBDJaVT-8iEGRtgBspCiW30_VHUnH5tb5lZAWdLdqkCua_OgJ6lLSMcieketyi0y-OOkvmtxgLuZSE_8jfkSyb-Q6um-riK/s320/Screenshot+2015-09-02+08.29.14.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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I've been pasting scores of images from these auctions in a folder labelled "Inspiration" to keep for future reference.</div>
<br />Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-54770058548811446572015-09-18T10:13:00.001-07:002015-09-18T12:05:34.008-07:00Small bookcase pt. 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After getting all my stock to width, I had to cut the legs and top to length. I used a regular old utility knife to prepare a knife wall for the saw to run in. Despite the width of the cut, I did it with my dozuki. I wanted to use as few and as simple tools as possible for this project.</div>
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I even decided to forgo a bevel gauge, and instead drew my 1:6 dovetail on the CAD drawing made on my Android phone (using the awsome <a href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=se.inard.pro&hl=sv">Inard CAD</a> app). I then printed the drawing and glued it on some scrap card.</div>
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The dovetails were laid out in pencil.</div>
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Sawing the tails with the dozuki saw.</div>
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I tried drilling out the waste, to reduce time and noise spent chopping. There was some blowout, so I wouldn't recommend doing this unless you deeply score your waste lines with the knife first.</div>
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Whoops! But this was easily fixed, I just made the tail smaller. </div>
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To mark the pins, I set it up like this and used the knife.</div>
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When it wouldn't reach I took the blade out and used it by iteself.</div>
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Chopping out dovetails is a loud, concussive endeavor for doing in an apartment. Maybe a coping saw would be better here... </div>
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I bevel the backside of the tails to make mating the tails and pins easier.</div>
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In situ.</div>
<br />Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-60170594234593694602015-09-18T09:42:00.001-07:002015-09-22T08:25:22.083-07:00Small bookcase pt. 1After a long hiatus, I have decided to breathe some life back into this blog. My woodworking was cut short last spring due to other interests taking time, and we have since I last posted moved to Stockholm. While my workspace was limited before, inspiring the name of this blog, it is now entirely non-existent.<br />
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But I hope that maybe I can inspire other apartment-bound craftspeople to explore the possibility of developing their craft despite lacking a workspace.<br />
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We need a small bookcase in one of the rooms in our new apartment, the "loggia" as it's called on the floorplan.<br />
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I had an offcut of 28mm thick laminated pine 60 cm deep by about 80 wide. I took a bit of 15x44mm stock from my pile, and got four cheap laminated pine bookshelves. All just homecenter stuff. To start with I would need to rip the 60cm piece into three pieces each just shy of 20cm wide.<br />
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I set up a workspace in my loggia, using an Alvar Aalto bench and our "sofa" with its new deep bench as my worksurface (no prize for guessing the origin of the off cut). One of the shelves leveled things out.</div>
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I used a saw guide and my jigsaw. Of course one could use a handsaw. Careful there with the saw... </div>
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The three pieces would need to have their edges dressed, so I set up the kitchen table as a planing bench clamping to this scrap of post.</div>
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Eventually I moved the clamp closest to me so I wouldn't run into it.</div>
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Then I planed the shelves down to the same width. Stock preparation finished!</div>
<br />Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-3743615428555928772015-02-27T01:17:00.000-08:002015-02-27T01:17:38.630-08:00Nail cabinet pt. 5<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
If I am going to make all 18 drawers, I had better make sure that they will all fit. I'm making them individually, so that each drawer will fit a specific slot, so I figured I should nail the dividers in place so that the cubbies have a defined size.</div>
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I predrilled all the holes, using this little hand drill I bought at an outdoor flea market in Brussels for my daughter. It's made in Germany and came with three small bits in a cavity in the handle.</div>
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Despite my preparations, one of the shelves still split. This is kind of discouraging, compounded by the fact that I found an offcut of 8mm plywood in the dumpster of the lumber yard the other day, almost perfectly sized for this purpose. I'm of half a mind to rip out these mdf dividers and fabricate new ones from the plywood. I've only made 1/3 of the drawers and could probably get them all to fit in new dividers. Hmm.</div>
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As per the instructions in the article, I've made a couple of layout aids to mark the location of the dividers on the case work, and the location of holes for the drawer pulls. Smart little jigs I'm glad I took the time to make up.</div>
<br />Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-35490780288812928932015-02-24T06:21:00.001-08:002015-02-24T06:22:03.042-08:00Zeitgeist pt. 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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My alumni magazine dropped through the mail slot today, and the cover shot sure looked familiar. Read the cover article <a href="http://www.whitman.edu/newsroom/whitman-magazine/whitman-magazine-winter-2015/wm-campus-news-feb-2015/wm-remake-feb-2015">here</a>.</div>
<br />Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2687842617539824099.post-1351789619770285512015-02-24T06:17:00.001-08:002015-02-24T06:17:16.891-08:00Nail cabinet pt. 4<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
With the dividers done (but not yet nailed into the cabinet), there are a few different ways to proceed with this project. I could nail the battens on to the sides, thus making the "crate" and a face frame on which to mount the hinge for the door. I have some material for this, but I may diverge from the project description and practice my mortise and tenons for this part of the project.</div>
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All the drawer parts were looking tempting, however, so I figured I would try my hand at making a practice drawer.</div>
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Using a dozuki and my miter box at the cluttered workbench.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOMQYYyZrojAgR-udiTMq9yoNZB_b1uRrhyphenhyphen-aTqgtqQv6efle17O9JkjySgMmeOrjOBfVKi_-92EB2wIhc0EJrzhQYySNTsDUKbw96M3oXiKDpAlAxhdNxudu5AEk0TPHxHIJQzD4mucHk/s1600/IMG_6168.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOMQYYyZrojAgR-udiTMq9yoNZB_b1uRrhyphenhyphen-aTqgtqQv6efle17O9JkjySgMmeOrjOBfVKi_-92EB2wIhc0EJrzhQYySNTsDUKbw96M3oXiKDpAlAxhdNxudu5AEk0TPHxHIJQzD4mucHk/s1600/IMG_6168.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Shooting the end of the drawer front. This material is 15x43 planed spruce from the lumberyard. By happenstance a perfect dimension for this project. I then cut a section of the 43mm wide plywood strips I had to the same length.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyr7Jq2DoZXzvFkQdmHcYBnAnaBr1lCqE4pkMd5LeJVve0sLh1A_o9yNUSIHwzzW0I_kxPvDb2_BD6Ida9FSmIzO7dDjSPFXZZ7-CYPfBhDIj2dKniOPBa8g1JCoZB8QUx5k9Y3t-QvIoe/s1600/IMG_6169.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyr7Jq2DoZXzvFkQdmHcYBnAnaBr1lCqE4pkMd5LeJVve0sLh1A_o9yNUSIHwzzW0I_kxPvDb2_BD6Ida9FSmIzO7dDjSPFXZZ7-CYPfBhDIj2dKniOPBa8g1JCoZB8QUx5k9Y3t-QvIoe/s1600/IMG_6169.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Lacking any nails for the time being I just glued up the drawer and held everything with clamps.</div>
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It was a tight fit, maybe too tight. But a few passes with the block plane and a coat of beeswax solved that problem.</div>
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Today I found some small nails to secure the drawer sides. I predrilled all the holes with a tiny 1mm bit in a tiny eggbeater drill. Still I had problems nailing into the back, as the nails kept going astray. Hopefully I'll get better as I make more drawers! The hardware looks good, doesn't it?</div>
<br />Hanshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10151195396019478159noreply@blogger.com0